Having trouble Tuning my bow to broadheads

[Dr. Rx]

Hello Gents...

Asking for guidance (HELP!!)..Shooting a Hoyt 2005 xt2000 ultramag..60lb...100 gr field tips shoot awesome;however..shooting 100 gr Magnus stinger broadheads just can't get consistent patterning beyond 40 yards..In fact, the consistent picture is that it is dropping way below point of aim and missing vitals. Question for the experts.. Where should I start changing one thing at a time? What would be your approach?


Thanks

Kris

[Njdiverdan]

Here are my recommendations. I am far from a pro, but do quite a bit of shooting.

Take an arrow and remove the fletching. ONLY SHOOT THIS WITH A FIELD POINT. Where does this impact / group vs. your fletched arrows? If the impact is low (my guess) you are nock high and need to either move your nock down or your rest up. If the impact is high, then the opposite. If you do this and do not see any improvements, then it is your arrows are potentially under spined. To check this, you can reduce the poundage and if that improves the impact you are under spined.

If you are hitting right or left then try moving your rest in or out in the same direction of the impact.

Once you have the bare shafts hitting right on with your field points, then your broadheads (with fletching) should do the same.

You can do the same exercise by paper tuning, but I find the bare shaft tuning faster and easier as finding the correct distance to have the arrow travel through the paper can be a challenge.

-dan

[wvmathewsman]

At what yardage do you usually shoot the barest shafts from?

[pointysticks]

first things first. is the bow at spec? pull out a tape measure and make sure. no sense chasing BH tune if the bow will never get you there.

i always nock and arrow and take a look. eyeball it. is the arrow coming off the string at a 90 degree angle? is the arrow shaft running thru the berger hole..or at least close?

if so, i would move the arrow rest a smidge up. tiny movements..dont go crazy. take notes on what adjustments you are making.

[Njdiverdan]

I will typically shoot a bare shaft at 20 yards to start.

Pointysticks makes a great point. Make sure the bow is to spec, check the simple things also check brace height. If your strings / cables are over stretched, you can get some shooting issues as well.

[Dr. Rx]

Thanks Guys..NJdiverdan and Pointysticks

You have given me great direction..will keep you guys posted...

Question: Is this common issue with fixed broadheads?

Kris

[jmez]

Very common issue with fixed blade BH's and the reason mechanical heads are so popular.

If you BH's are hitting lower than your FP's your arrow is leaving the bow a little nock high. Conversely, the point is low. As it travels downrange, the farther it goes, the lower its point of impact. With FP's the fletching will partially correct the imperfect flight. With BH's it won't be corrected as much as the BH increases air resistance and acts as fletching on the front of the arrow. The front end and back end fight for control of the arrow. Any small imperfections in flight or form will be magnified with BH's and also magnified the farther away you are shooting. This is why you generally have to tune your bow to shoot a fixed blade BH even when FP's are flying great.

I would caution against bare shaft shooting/tuning at this point if you have not done it before. If you do not have nearly perfect, repeatable form you will have a lot of problems shooting a bare shaft. Especially at 20 yards. You can very easily end up chasing your tail changing things and not getting them right. This is something you should try in the off season when you have time to spend with it. IMO it is too close to the season to try to jump into bare shafting. You will likely end up confused, and frustrated with no confidence. Bare shaft tuning is a great way to check your form. August is not the time to try to be making form changes.

How low are your BH's at 40? I would move the rest up about 1/16 of an inch. A little movement goes a long ways. After you move the rest up then go to 20 yards and re sight in using the gang adustment. You are going to be high at 20 yards. When you get zeroed at 20 then go back to 40 and shoot your BH's and FP's again. They should be much closer now. Keep doing this until you bring them together.

If you go through this and you BH's hit high at 40 yards you moved the rest too far. Drop it back down a little and repeat.

[Njdiverdan]

jmez gives excellent advice. I take form for granted and there could be something there. I know a lot of guys who are applying torque as they shoot with their bow hand. I knew one guy who only did it shooting broadheads. It was a mental thing, he would shoot field points with an open hand with good follow through. When shooting a broadhead, he would close his fingers on the shot. Caused enough torque to effect arrow flight.

In reality if you need a really quick fix, just adjust your pins to your broadhead point of impact and then address the tuning issues after the season. This is typically what a lot of guys do and get by.

[Dr. Rx]

Thank you Jmez...You are spot on...I've been chasing my tail and can't seem to get it right..and being close to september, I don't want to mess with my confidence!!

I'm about a good 4-5 inches off.. when I aim at the vitals, it just shoots below between the legs...Left to right is good...

I will raise the rest and start the process..

Thank you for your help

Kris

[jmez]

4-5 inches at 40 yards isn't that far off.

Shouldn't take much to get that fixed.